Natural Areas
in Dorgali and Cala Gonone

A Land Sculpted by Water

The Supramonte is an immense karst system, home to famous sea caves like Bue Marino and Grotta del Fico, and inland caves such as Ispinigoli, Sa Oche, Su Bentu, Corbeddu, and Su Gologone—a perennial spring that feeds the Cedrino River. Its dry riverbeds (codule), sinkholes, shafts, screes, and vertical cliffs reveal a geological story millions of years old, with water as the only true sculptor.

Wilderness and Forest

In the more sheltered areas, you’ll find ancient forests of holm oak, yew, and juniper, where time seems to stand still. These ridges are still home to mouflon, golden eagles, wildcats, and goshawks. The dense, fragrant Mediterranean scrub hides ancient shepherd shelters (cuiles) and historical trails, still used today by shepherds, hikers, and climbers.

A Land of Stories and Resistance

Humans have inhabited the Supramonte since the Neolithic, and according to local tradition, the area offered refuge during the Punic and Roman invasions. The hostile terrain—with few landmarks, scarce surface water, and thick vegetation—helped preserve the independence and resilience of local communities for centuries.
Even today, walking these ridges means following in the footsteps of shepherds, rebels, charcoal burners, and wanderers, often without visible traces, but with a strong sense of connection to something ancient and enduring.

Gorroppu Gorge(Supramonte)

At the southern edge of the Supramonte, where the territories of Dorgali, Urzulei, and Orgosolo meet, lies one of the deepest and most breathtaking canyons in Europe: Gola di Gorropu.
Towering over 500 meters high in places, the gorge was carved over millennia by the Flumineddu River, which still flows between the smooth, white rock walls shaped by time. It’s a primordial and awe-inspiring environment, home to endemic species like the golden eagle and the rare Centaurea di Gorropu, and a dream destination for nature lovers.

The trail that starts from Genna ‘e Silana or the Oddoene Valley leads visitors through holm oak forests and dramatic viewpoints, down to the canyon floor—where you can’t help but feel small, yet deeply connected to something majestic.
Access is regulated, and we highly recommend joining local hiking guides to experience the trail safely and fully.

Orientation in the Supramonte is often challenging: trails can fade, springs may be seasonal, and landmarks are few. That’s why we strongly recommend relying on local guides, who know the land intimately and can lead you on safe, unforgettable hikes.

At the eastern foothills of the Supramonte of Dorgali, where the codule (dry riverbeds) descend toward the sea and the rugged landscape softens into deep valleys, lie two of the most captivating yet lesser-known forest areas of the region: Ghivine and Suttaterra.
Here, silence reigns, broken only by the rustle of leaves, the cry of a bird of prey, or the sudden echo of hooves on the rocky ground.

These ancient woodlands of holm oaks, junipers, and Mediterranean scrub are among the last examples of undisturbed primary vegetation, and they safeguard a rich cultural and natural heritage.

The Natural Arch of Suttaterra: A Window Over the Landscape

Hidden within the forest boundaries, at 850 meters above sea level, stands the Natural Arch of Suttaterra—a spectacular pierced rock that opens like a window over the Oddoene Valley and, further beyond, the Codula di Ilune.
This spot marks the summit of Punta Su Nuraghe, one of the most breathtaking viewpoints in the Dorgali Supramonte. Not far from here, among rocks and shrubs, you may also spot a megalithic wall, further evidence of ancient human presence in these remote highlands.

Ghivine and Suttaterra invite exploration at a slow pace. These are timeless places, where nature reveals its quiet strength, shaped by millennia, and where the subtle traces of the past blend with a present that still speaks of resilience and authenticity.

Navigation in Ghivine and on the trails to Suttaterra can be challenging. Paths may fade, water sources are often seasonal, and visual references are scarce. That’s why we strongly recommend hiking with local expert guides, who know the terrain intimately and can lead you safely on unforgettable excursions.

Natural pools and the quiet rhythm of inland waters

Just behind Dorgali lies a quiet green oasis—Oddoene Valley, one of the most charming and lesser-known natural treasures of the Sardinian inland.
Time seems to slow here, paced by the sound of flowing water and the rustling of Mediterranean scrub, amidst centuries-old olive trees, historic vineyards, and small cultivated plots where Dorgali’s rural traditions have thrived for generations.

The Frumeneddu River and its Hidden Pools

The Rio Frumeneddu, a seasonal mountain stream, is the valley’s silent yet central character. Flowing through limestone canyons and wooded slopes, it forms crystal-clear pools, small waterfalls, and natural basins—perfect for cooling off during the hot summer months.
These emerald waters, shaded by leafy oaks, reflect the quiet side of Sardinia, where nature whispers rather than roars.

Top spots to explore include:

• “Sa Barva” Bridge
  A perfect spot to swim, relax with a book, or enjoy a picnic in the shade of the trees. A small natural beach lies just below the bridge, where the river opens into a sandy, shallow pool. Easily reachable by car, with nearby seasonal refreshment stands offering drinks and snacks.

• “Su Balladorzu”
  Just upstream from the bridge, this hidden gem is more secluded and immersed in thick vegetation. Here, the river forms deeper natural pools, ideal for those who love a wilder swim experience.

In especially rainy years, the river’s course changes, old pools disappear, and new beaches form—making each visit a unique discovery. The once-loved natural pool of Su Poju Mannu may have vanished, but its legacy lives on in the enchanting new spots that nature continues to shape.

A Perfect Terroir for Cannonau Wine

Oddoene Valley is also wine country. Its sun-kissed slopes and limestone-alluvial soils nurture premium-quality grapes, often grown with organic and traditional methods.
Several local wineries offer vineyard or cellar tastings, paired with local products and stories rooted in the land’s farming culture. It’s an authentic way to experience the deep flavors of the region, framed by orderly vines and panoramic views of the Supramonte mountains.

The Rural Church of Nostra Signora di Buoncammino

Nestled in the peaceful landscape of the Oddoene Valley, this beloved countryside church is surrounded by olive trees, almond groves, and vineyards—a beautiful symbol of the region’s deep bond between spirituality and land.
Simple yet evocative, the church becomes a meeting point during the annual campestral festival, where locals celebrate with ancient religious and communal traditions. The cumbessias (pilgrims’ lodgings) still visible nearby testify to the families who once stayed here during the novena—a ritual of prayer and togetherness in nature.

Oddoene Valley is not just about nature and silence—it’s a gateway to some of Supramonte’s most iconic hikes, such as the Gorropu Gorge and Tiscali Village.
For those seeking a quieter day surrounded by beauty, the Frumeneddu pools offer the perfect alternative to the sea: fresh water, cool shade, and serene charm.

Where silence flows through the heart of Sardinia

The Cedrino River winds quietly through one of the most emblematic landscapes of the Dorgali region. It originates in the highlands of the Gennargentu mountains and flows for over 80 km before reaching the sea near Orosei.
Along its course, the Pedra ‘e Othoni dam has created an artificial lake—now a favorite destination for kayaking and outdoor activities that combine sport and quiet immersion in nature.

As you glide slowly along the water, you enter a world of reflections, silence, and wild beauty. You’ll see mountain silhouettes mirrored in the lake, herons standing between the reeds, and signs of human presence linked to faith and tradition.
The Cedrino is more than just a river—it’s a living landscape, famously evoked by Nobel laureate Grazia Deledda in “Reeds in the Wind”, where one can still feel the “sigh of the reeds”.

The Springs of Su Gologone

At the foot of the Supramonte of Oliena, you’ll find Su Gologone, one of the most important karst springs in Sardinia, designated a Natural Monument in 1998.
Its crystal-clear water bursts from the dolomitic rock, forming a vibrant pool that shimmers from emerald green to deep blue. This magical place draws cave divers from around the world as well as visitors fascinated by the spring’s mystery and natural beauty.

A small nature park nearby offers shaded picnic areas beneath eucalyptus trees, educational panels, walking trails, and spots for reading and playing—perfect for a relaxing break.
Not far away, the rural church of Nostra Signora della Pietà adds a spiritual note to the landscape.

Rural Churches: San Pantaleo and Sos Anzelos

Along the Dorgali stretch of the Cedrino River lie two of the area’s most evocative country churches:

• San Pantaleo, nestled in greenery near the riverbanks

• Nostra Signora degli Angeli (Sos Anzelos), situated on a peaceful plateau dotted with the remains of ancient cumbessias (pilgrims’ lodgings)

These sacred sites are intimately connected to the region’s agricultural heritage and collective spiritual celebrations. Even today, they host traditional festivals where songs, processions, and communal meals beneath the oak trees renew a deep, enduring sense of faith and belonging.